Road Trip: ES/PT Day 12

On the last full day of our spring road trip, which began almost exactly one year ago, we "did" Lisbon (PT).

 

First up was a bus ride with our 24-hr Lisboa Card up the hill to reach the castle--this view looks back down upon the square (with that equestrian statue) near our hotel (just off the right edge).

With a history dating back at least 10 centuries, fortifications on the site of the Castelo de São Jorge were put to use by the Phoenicians, Carthaginians, Romans, and Moors before conquest by the Portuguese in 1147. 

Since the 14th century, it has been home to peafowl imported from India, which are clearly now the ruling family.  When we were there, many peahens had peachicks underfoot.

Some wander in the neighborhoods near the castle as well; this peacock was in a stand-off with his own reflection in a shop window!

After the castle we wandered through the nearby Alfama neighborhood, enjoying the tile-paneled backside of one scenic overlook

and the colorful painted tiles of many house fronts. 

We then toured the open-air Museum of Lisbon – Roman Theatre, which showcases the ruins of a 1st century B.C. multipurpose Roman municipal building.

Nearby was the Igreja de Santo António de Lisboa, which despite medieval origins now only dates to 1767 after having been destroyed by the 1755 earthquake.

We then explored the city on foot as we worked our way down to the waterfront, passing by classic post-earthquake/tsunami streets and opting to not ride the famous funicular because it was too fragile-looking (which sadly proved to be the case during a horrific accident last September).

We had more faith in the subway and buses, though, so we took them to the western end of town to look at the 16th century part-defensive/part-symbolic Belém Tower at the mouth of the Tagus River.

Walking inland to the north, we then paused to admire the western entrance to the Jerónimos Monastery.

This 16th century monastery was built of Portuguese limestone in late Gothic Manueline style, which is very elaborate and incorporates maritime themes.

Although ornate, it is also subtly monotone, with almost everything carved of the same gold-colored stone.

The double-decker cloisters are magnificent,

as are such details as the intricately painted azulejo tiles.

From there we wandered into the Palácio Nacional da Ajuda, an 18th-19th century neoclassical royal residence on a hilltop overlooking Lisbon's historic oldtown.

Not only is the palace filled with amazing art from the world over, but every square inch of ceiling, wall, floor, and drapery is exquisitely detailed.

At the palace entrance are 23 marble statues made by different artists at different times, each symbolizing a different attribute (such as Gratitude).

Finally, primarily because we were standing next to it anyway, we strolled through the Royal Treasure Museum, which is inside one of the world's largest vaults (completed in 2022) and shows off the royal family's jewels, diplomatic gifts, silver, and the golden Portuguese Royal Crown.

By then, we were touristed-out and fled back to our hotel before our Lisboa Cards expired, to recover and prepare to fly out the next morning.

 

Although admittedly absurdly long, it was an amazing trip that can only be recommended.