Our ninth day on the road last May began in Portugal, but ended with one last night in Spain.
Still moving north at the start of the day, we drove past yet another fortress on a hill (Arraiolos, PT),
before stopping at the truly unique Dolmen-chapel of Anta-Capela de São Dinis (PT). This large burial monument dating to the 4th-3rd millennium B.C. was converted in the 17th century to a tiny chapel.From there we stopped in the village of Avis (PT), which was founded and fortified in the 13th century.Continuing north along a Portuguese national highway, we passed cork oaks whose trunks have faded over time from the bright reddish brown that was revealed immediately after the outer bark was peeled away.These open, savanna-like expanses are actually old orchards, as indicated by the numbered trees suspiciously forming rows.
The old village of Alter do Chão (PT) has a castle right smack in the middle of town (like a gigantic island in the middle of a traffic circle),but we were equally distracted by an 18th-century azulejo hunting scene.We then entered Portalegre (PT), which like so many European cities felt intensely urban despite the small population because everything is so tight.Our walking tour took us to a 16th-18th century convent that is currently used for military police training. While E. chatted with the guard, I used the 'facilities' and learned (the hard way) that squat-toilets were not designed for female anatomy.
From there we continued northeast and re-entered Spain, stopping for a long hike through the lovely Los Barruecos National Monument. Some of the granite formations at the site were converted by the Romans into burial chambers.Most of the "bolos" rounded by erosion over the millennia lie tossed about the landscape,
and the tallest are put to use by storks during the nesting season (before they head to Africa for the winter).
From there we continued northeast and re-entered Spain, stopping for a long hike through the lovely Los Barruecos National Monument. Some of the granite formations at the site were converted by the Romans into burial chambers.Most of the "bolos" rounded by erosion over the millennia lie tossed about the landscape,
and the tallest are put to use by storks during the nesting season (before they head to Africa for the winter).
Nearby, dozens of posts have been erected to keep up with the demand for stork nesting spots!Our final stop of the day was the city of Cáceres (ES), which we explored by foot that evening. What looked like a Klu Klux Klan statue was actually in honor of the Lay Brothers who participate in the traditional Holy Week Passion play.Some of the houses in Cáceres bear the traditional blue azulejos tiles,
while others expose a rubble masonry of natural stones fixed in mortar.
Situated along a Roman highway, there are plenty of excavated Roman ruins,
as well as fortified Islamic towers and medieval Christian palaces.
Our hotel was right on the Plaza Mayor of Cáceres,
which was particularly pretty from our room after dark. Day 9 down!
while others expose a rubble masonry of natural stones fixed in mortar.
Situated along a Roman highway, there are plenty of excavated Roman ruins,
as well as fortified Islamic towers and medieval Christian palaces.
Our hotel was right on the Plaza Mayor of Cáceres,
which was particularly pretty from our room after dark. Day 9 down!




















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